Eggenfellner Subaru H6 Engine Details

H6 ENGINE INSTALLATION DETAILS

FUEL REQUIREMENTS

The 4 cylinder, non supercharged engines, can operate on 87 octane car gas, or 100LL with the recommended amount of Marvel Mystery Oil added as shown on the can label.

Six Cylinder engines, prior to 2008 models, are high compression engines and therefore MUST use high octane fuel (91 octane or above) 100LL is also good if Marvell Mystery Oil is mixed with the gasoline.

Any turbo or supercharged engine must use 100LL fuel in order to guard agains the possiblility of engine detonation if lower than specified octane somehow is obtained.

Oil, for all engines should be 5W30 or 5W40 weight. Use regular or semi synthetic oil if you use 100LL fuel and not full synthetic oil. You can use synthetic oil, after a 100 hr brake-in period but only if you do not use 100LL fuel.

The ideal gasoline mix is 91 octane auto gas with 20% 100LL to elevate the octane even further.

Please read and understand all operating instructions for this engine in the Subaru maintenance and vehicle operations manual.

LOW VIBRATIONS - HOW TO KEEP THINGS GLASS SMOOTH

Just got this from Andy. He has had some low rpm vibration. From this it is important to see that once you are sure the propeller is as smooth as you can make it, the next step is to be 100% sure that no part of the engine is touching the cowling, or as in this case, the engine mount (other than through the mounting bushings)

Jan, Here is what I've been up to trying to get rid of vibrations. The spectrum mode of the PB-1 prop balancer works well. This may help others trouble shoot vibrations.

I got my prop balancer back and balanced the prop to .05 IPS. The display was very noisy as I expected from other vibration. Then I took the accelerometer and held it to the main spar in the cockpit. A t 1700, where I feel the harmonic vibration the most, the spectrum page had peaks at twice the prop rpm and a smaller one at 3 times the prop rpm. There was no harmonic at the prop rpm. I concluded the following (with some help from a mechanic friend): 1. There was no airframe harmonic at prop rpm so a blade slightly out of rig is probably not the source. I re-measured the blades more precisely and they are within .2 degree. 2. The vibration at 3 times the prop rpm is from the thrust pulses of the 3-blade prop hitting something. There was a small peak at 6 times the prop rpm, which is likely, exhaust pulses bouncing off the ground on to the floor. Or it could be thrust pulses from the prop hitting each side of the engine. 3. The largest peak at 2 times the rpm is vibration from the engine.

I decided to look at engine mounts. I took apart the rear mount just aft of the oil pan. The rubber mounts were not centered in the hole and the bolt was actually touching the small mount plate attached to the engine case. It appears the back of the engine had sagged slightly. I used an engine hoist to gently take the weight of the rear of the engine. I loosened the front bottom mounts a couple of turns also. This got the bolt off the mount plate. I put in a new mount bushing and tightened it before releasing the hoist. I flew tonight and the shudder I had at 1700 rpm is gone.

I am almost down to turbine smooth. I took my Dad to Ocracoke (W95, look it up on Airnav) on Sunday. I'll send a picture later.

Andy

2007 E6-Series Engine Wiring Using Gold colored Engine computer (ECU)

1) RED – 20A EFI Power. This wire provides power for your Electronic Fuel Injection system. This includes the ignition coils and fuel injector coils.

This circuit is critical and must obtain power from the "Essential Equipment Bus". In other words, no matter which battery is supplying power, this circuit must remain powered.

Use a 20 Amp resetable, aircraft-quality circuit breaker.

Having said all this, it is not strictly necessary for this circuit to be switched on and off along with the ignition switch at all. If the ECU is powered down, then it will never trigger the coils and
this circuit will sit idle, consuming no power. However, most builders will prefer to have this circuit "switched" in order to minimize the number of "always hot" circuits in the aircraft. This
requires that whatever switch or relay is controlling this circuit, be capable of reliably handling the 20 Amp load.

Just try to understand the functions for now. We will get into exact wiring in a moment.

2) RED – 5A ECU Power. This wire provides power for the ECU, the computer that controls your engine.

This circuit is critical and must obtain power from the "Essential Equipment Bus". In other words, no matter which battery is supplying power, this circuit must remain powered.

Use a 5 Amp resetable, aircraft-quality circuit breaker.

This circuit should be switched by your Ignition Switch. Turning off this circuit effectively shuts down the engine.

3) BLUE – 5A Alternator Enable. To enable your alternator to produce charging current, this wire must be connected to a power source. This power source can be switched by the Master Switch or a subservient "Alternator" switch. People have come to know this function as an "alternator field", however that is a term that has lingered on from years ago. It is actually just an enable signal going to a solid-state voltage regulator inside the alternator. It knows only ON or OFF, not specific voltages in between.

If you wish to have the ability to manually turn on and off the alternator, a switch should be provided. However, beware that turning an alternator on and off under heavy load can dramatically shorten the life of the alternator and cause substantial spikes and surges. If used, this switch should be left in the ON position, except when the alternator actually needs to be taken offline for some reason. For simplicity, this wire can simply be switched by the Master Switch or the Ignition Switch.

This wire is only `critical' in the sense that if it is not receiving power, the alternator will not produce current to charge the batteries. However, the most likely failure scenario that
would cause you to resort to a backup battery in the first place, is an alternator failure! If I were to use an alternator switch, I would go ahead and take power from the Essential Equipment Bus
because I could always turn the alternator off if it was the cause of power loss. If this wire is hard-wired with no switch, I would wire it to a MAIN battery bus instead, causing the alternator to go off-line automatically if I select the AUX bus.

4) BLACK – Ground. This wire is the ground wire for the Engine Control Unit. No circuit protection is required on ground wires.

This is a critical wire and must be securely routed and fastened to an appropriate ground plate connection. Lose this ground connection and the engine stops! Treat it with respect and make a
good connection.

5) Yellow with Blue Stripe – 20A Starter. This wire provides power to engage your starter solenoid relay, thus cranking your engine.

Because starter solenoids are known to draw large power surges, this circuit should get power through a 20 Amp circuit breaker inline with a switch, button, or relay capable of sourcing 20 Amps. If you prefer to use a more delicate switch or key switch, this circuit should be connected to a power relay which is then operated by the switch.

6) LIGHT BLUE – Tach. This is a tachometer signal from the ECU. It is a 5-volt square wave compatible with most instruments capable of displaying RPM. It provides one pulse per revolution of the engine. It can also be used as the tachometer input to the `Aerolink' Constant-Speed Propeller Controller.

7) WHITE – FF/Prop. This wire is connected to one of the fuel injector coil triggers. It is used by the `Grand Rapids' EIS-4000FF or `Aerolink' Fuel Flow Transducer for calculating fuel
consumption. It can also be used as the tachometer input to the `Aerolink' Constant-Speed Propeller Controller. This wire must never be grounded. Individual instruments must provide circuit protection for this wire, with a fuse of typically 1 Amp or less.

8) DARK GREEN – O2 Sensor. No additional connections need to be made here. This is simply a test point and convenient location to connect an oxygen sensor to the ECU. During normal warm engine operation using an O2 sensor, this test point will toggle between
0.0 and 0.9 volts. Note that a decision was made in mid year 2007, to discontinue use of oxygen sensors and "closed loop" operation. The problems associated with oxygen sensors far outweighed any benefit. All ECUs have this feature turned off permanently. Thus, no connections are required on this terminal, although the sensor can remain wired up without causing problems.

9) LIGHT GREEN – TPS. Throttle Position Sensor. Turbocharged engines use this signal to sense throttle position. Non turbocharged engines do not use this wire. This wire must never be
grounded.

FLYING THE CONSTANT SPEED ELECTRIC PROPELLERS

Fine pitch:

Fine pitch will occur by itself if the throttle is pulled to idle. The propeller will try to maintain the RPM you have dialed into the controller. When the power output of the engine, as you reduce throttle, no longer is sufficient to maintain the selected rpm, the blades will start to rotate towards a shallow angle (fine pitch). Eventually, the pitch will be fully fine.
Full fine is obtained wherever the electric stop is adjusted on the propeller itself. Different electric propellers have slightly different ways of setting this stop.
At full fine pitch, there are two advantages. You will be able to obtain max rpm and thrust with the airplane sitting still and you will be producing max drag during a steep descent.
As the airplane start to accelerate, the propeller blades are unloaded, and the rpm will increase, unless more pitch (angle) is added to the blades. Because of this, it is not necessary to have the initial setting at 2700 rpm. A lesser setting, such as 2550 rpm, will prevent the propeller rpm from going higher than 2700 during rapid application of throttle, during the initiation of a takeoff roll. Rather than relying on the electronic controller to sense the RPM, then correct for it being too high, the lower initial setting will mechanically keep things under control, every time.
With an adjustment to the electrical stops, preventing too much initial rpm, takeoff rpm will happen a few hundred feet down the runway, as the airplane is accelerating.
During flight, the fact that at idle, the blades will automatically move to fine pitch, you should experiment with turning the propeller controller off, while you still have power to turn the blades to 2300 rpm. Then reduce the throttle and see how you just transformed your "short winged, brick diving" airplane into a nice motor glider :)

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