This section covers the installation of your Gascolator, EFI Fuel Pumps, Fuel Return Line, Coolant Reservoir, throttle cable, and optional Heater Hoses and Heater Controls.
NOTE: THE FOLLOWING PICTURES SHOW THE FUEL PUMPS MOUNTED ON THE FIREWALL. CURRENT EGGENFELLNER-RECOMMENDED PRACTICE IS TO MOUNT THEM IN THE CABIN. SEE PHOTO ABOVE FOR A TYPICAL INSTALLATION.
A Gascolator is optional but useful for separating water and contaminants from the fuel supply. Both Andair and Van's offer suitable gascolators. Be sure to get a gascolator which has O-rings and seals capable of withstanding automotive fuels. The Buna type seals are good. The Andair unit is a higher quality, but the Van's gascolator has a unique feature that also serves as the firewall bulkhead pass-through fitting. The choice is yours. Be sure to obtain a "NEEDLE-TYPE" drain valve too.
Your engine uses dual EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) fuel pumps. One of these will be wired to be your MAIN pump and the other will be your AUX pump. The pump with the most direct plumbing should be designated as the MAIN pump. The pumps contain an integral check-valve so that if one pump fails, or is turned off, the other pump will not back-drive fuel through the stopped pump. This arrangement allows for simple tee fittings for both inlet and outlet plumbing. We will cover pump and fuel sensor wiring in Chapter 6.
It is never necessary to run both pumps at the same time. In fact, this consumes excess energy without providing any benefit. The pilot is provided with both manual and automatic pump control through a "Pump Select" switch. The automatic function will detect pressure loss from the MAIN pump and switch on the AUX pump before the pressure drops to a critical point. This arrangement makes it unnecessary to run both pumps simultaneously and provides the fastest possible failover switching.
The EFI pumps are not specifically rated as self-priming, but have proven to be capable of self-priming up to 24". In a high-wing aircraft, priming is a non-issue. If you are building an aircraft with an overhead engine pod like many seaplanes, you will have special fuel system design issues that are not addressed in this manual. In particular, some form of vented header tank will be required. Contact the factory for further information.
The fuel that flows through the EFI pumps provides pump cooling. Our full-loop fuel system circulates enough fuel to carry away most of the heat from the pumps and injector rails; however, if you have chosen to install your pumps on the firewall, you must install some form of heat-shield over the pumps. The heat-shield can be a simple aluminum or stainless-steel plate mounted between the pumps and the engine exhaust system. Active cooling air piped through 1.5" Scat tubing from one radiator inlet box to the pumps is also required for firewall mounted pumps.
The fuel pumps are fastened to a pair of aluminum brackets. It is recommended that you provide some form of rubber or nylon shock-mounting to absorb vibration and reduce pump noise inside the cockpit.
You will need a set of Oetiker clamps and pliers to complete your installation. You can obtain these from the factory.
Oetiker Clamp Kit
1. [ ] Note the time
If you have already installed your fuel pumps in the center cabin floor, then just read through this section for any useful tips or steps you may have overlooked.
2. [ ] IF USING FIREWALL MOUNTED PUMPS, position the pumps and gascolator on the lower left side of the firewall (right side if looking at the firewall from the engine side).
The pumps can be oriented vertically or horizontally, but they must be mounted as low on the firewall as practical. You will need to play with the positioning to assure that you can fit the pumps, fuel sensors, gascolator, bulkhead fitting, filter, fuel supply line, and possibly a battery in the available space. This is best accomplished by locating the pumps as far outboard as possible with the gascolator just inboard of the pumps.
When positioning the gascolator, think about where the firewall pass-through fitting will need to be. Make sure you don't inadvertently place it over the brake hose connections on the inside of the firewall. Think about the drain fitting when determining the vertical placement of the gascolator.
The Vans gascolator will mount on the firewall and the drain will just clear the engine mount tube. The base of this gascolator cup should be as close to the engine mount tube as possible, yet still allowing the cup to be removed for cleaning. A short brass pipe nipple will be required to extend the NEEDLE-TYPE drain valve so it just protrudes from under the cowling (via a hole you must drill in the cowl).
Vans Gascolator with extended drain & built-in bulkhead fitting.
Note that this photo shows a plunger type drain valve. This should be replaced with a needle type or twist type drain valve.
The Andair gascolator uses a mounting bracket and separate fuel fittings. Obtain and layout these fittings. It helps to temporarily install the fuel system pressure sender, pressure switch, and optional temperature probe before you commit to a final position. Note that this is not the only possible location for the gascolator. You may position it wherever you like, but it must be mounted low on the firewall and far away from the exhaust pipe.
Andair Gascolator with additional fuel tube & bulkhead fitting. Note the twist type drain valve. Do not use a plunger type valve.
3. [ ] Mark the location of the mounting holes for the gascolator and pumps.
Note: There have been a variety of types and orientations of fuel filters and plumbing on early motors. Yours may not look the same as the photos below. Nonetheless, these guidelines remain applicable to all filters and pump configurations. The latest, and arguably best, method is to install the pumps on the cabin floor center console area rather than on the firewall as shown here.
4. [ ] Determine how you would like to shock-mount the pumps. Typically the use of thick nylon washers or rubber grommets will be used. Before drilling holes, verify that everything still fits with the added thickness of the shock-mounts.
5. [ ] After drilling, debur the gascolator and pump mounting holes (holes for Vans model shown).
6. [ ] Bolt the gascolator and pumps to the firewall. Use 1" diameter stainless-steel washers on the inside of the firewall to reinforce the bolts. This will help to alleviate any future stress cracks. (Vans model shown; note the wide washers).
7. [ ] Install the 3/8" gascolator fuel supply line inside the cabin using AN size 6 fittings. This will be coming from your optional primer pump, or optional flow sender, or your selector valve if you are not using either of these optional components. This should complete your in-cabin fuel system plumbing. If you are using the Andair gascolator, you will need to install a firewall bulkhead fitting and a short section of 3/8" line to connect the gascolator as shown below.
8. [ ] Connect the gascolator to the fuel pump inlet tee using the supplied 5/16 rubber Fuel Injection Hose.
WARNING: Fuel Injection Hose is NOT the same as regular fuel line hose. It has a far greater burst pressure rating. It must be used! Likewise, Oetiker clamps must be used on all high-pressure fuel lines. The only exception is that band-style Fuel Injection screw clamps may be used at the fuel filter for maintainability reasons.
You will need a 1/4 NPT to 5/16 barbed fitting. These are available in brass at any good hardware store. Aluminum 5/16 barbs are rare, but use one if you have it. NAPA auto parts stores have these in a "single barb" style which are more expensive but the ideal style for the application. Do not use nylon or any other plastic fittings in the fuel system. Use Oetiker clamps on all permanent connections.
9. [ ] Determine the placement of the fuel filter. The filter is to be oriented in a way which will allow air to pass through. Pay attention to how the fuel line will be routed to the motor so as to minimize bends.
WARNING: Automotive EFI motors with full-loop fuel systems require high-volume / high-pressure filters. The popular "cleanable" type filters do not offer the volume or pressure needed by your motor. Most are limited to around 5 gph and 15 psi. For our system, we need 40 gph and 60 psi. Stick with the filter provided by the factory if you are not absolutely sure of the specification of whatever filter you are considering.
10. [ ] Install the fuel filter using Fuel Injection Hose Clamps available at any good auto parts store. These are NOT worm-drive Breeze clamps. They are band-clamps specifically designed for fuel injection hoses. Drill a hole as needed for your filter-mounting bracket. For best serviceability, use nut-plates on the firewall. The filter will be changed during every inspection. Pay attention to the direction of flow.
Some advice from the engineer (he has a thing about clamps...)
"...Or better yet, go to your local salvage yard that handles late model cars. Bring your screw gun and remove as many of these clamps as you can from Mazda or Subaru cars. The clamps are stainless-steel rather than the plated type available at auto parts stores. Obviously, you can order them new from Subaru as well. One word of caution: 5/16 automotive fuel injection hose comes in several brands. They are not of the same outside diameter, so be sure your clamps have a good fit and that the hose is not so large as to make the screw clamp crush against itself, rather than overlap, when the screw is tightened." [ Jan ]
11. [ ] Measure and cut a section of Fuel Injection Hose (supplied) to run between your filter outlet and the left side fuel injector rail. Make the hose long enough to support gentle bends, but no longer than necessary.
12. [ ] Optionally, cut and install a section of firesleeve material over your fuel line. The ends of the firesleeve can be clamped with firesleeve clamps, Oetiker clamps, or tie-wraps. A dab of orange high-temp RTV silicone sealer will help prevent moisture from getting inside the firesleeve matting.
13. [ ] Install the fuel line between the filter and left injector rail. Fasten the fuel line to the injector rail barb using TWO Oetiker clamps (this barb has been modified, so the extra clamp is recommended). Use a Fuel Injection Hose clamp on the filter side.
14. [ ] Support the hose as needed using Adel clamps. This installation shows a small aluminum bracket that serves to secure the fuel hose as well as the engine electrical connectors. Because this fuel hose must take up any vibration between the engine and firewall, it should be secured at each end. Do not rely on the barbs alone.
Note: The photo below shows one option for mounting the fuel filter in the supply line. This is not as desirable as fastening the filter to the firewall, but if space is limited and the two sections of hose are well clamped and supported, it works fine. Notice the firesleeve (orange), the additional Adel clamps at both ends, and the use of fuel injection band clamps at the filter to allow for easy maintenance. The small aluminum "Z" bracket clamps the forward end of the supply line as well as providing a place to secure the two engine electrical connectors.
15. [ ] If you are using the optional Firesleeve, you may remove one end of the crossover hose that runs between the injector rails and place a section of Firesleeve over it and snake it back into position. Clamp it with an Oetiker clamp.
16. [ ] Measure and cut a section of Fuel Injection Hose to run between the Fuel Regulator (right side injector rail) and the return fitting on the right side of the firewall. This is your fuel return line.
17. [ ] If you are using the optional Firesleeve, cut and install a section over this line.
18. [ ] Install the fuel return line. Use an Oetiker clamp on the fuel regulator end. The firewall end can use the supplied barb-to-AN5 fitting. The photo shows the desired position for the return line bulkhead fitting as described in earlier sections. This builder has chosen to use steel fittings at the firewall. Note the washer under the fitting nut for reinforcement. The short section of blue heater hose and large tie-wrap secure the fuel line to the engine mount. Never depend on the bulkhead fitting alone to support the fuel line.
19. [ ] Add tie-wraps or clamps to secure the hose and take up any vibration. Note the use of a large tie-wrap to secure the fuel hose to the dipstick tube and the small aluminum shield that is tie-wrapped around the fuel regulator to secure the firesleeve. The cable next to the fuel regulator is for this builder's custom heater valve. This will not exist on the stock motors.
20. [ ] IF YOU ARE USING FIREWALL MOUNTED PUMPS, fabricate and install a heat-shield to protect your pumps from the heat of the exhaust system. This can be a simple aluminum or stainless-steel plate that is attached to your pump brackets. Make sure to mount the shield in a way that does not interfere with the wires or fuel lines. A simple shield will do the job (left), but it is best to use a full vented system such as the builder below has (right).
21. [ ] This completes the fuel system plumbing! Note the time.
The throttle cable can now be run through the firewall to the throttle body bellcrank. Some builders use a simple rubber grommet where the cable passes through the firewall. Eventually this will chaff through and create a rattle. A better solution is to use a stainless-steel "eyeball" assembly available from Aircraft Spruce for about $25. The cable should be routed through the cockpit with as few shallow bends as possible to assure smooth operation. It should penetrate the firewall next to one of the instrument panel support ribs so it has a straight shot to the throttle body bellcrank.
1. [ ] Note the time.
2. [ ] Drill a hole for the throttle cable in your firewall. If using an eyeball assembly, use the paper template that comes with the device to drill the seven holes as required. If you do not have a method of cutting this large of hole in stainless (no easy task) you will need to drill a series of small holes in a circle, punch out the center, and smooth the edges with a Dremel tool or sanding drum bit. The photo below shows two eyeballs being installed. The lower one is for a custom heater valve this particular builder is using. If you are using the factory heater option, you will not need this lower hole and eyeball.
3. [ ] Route the cable through the firewall and secure the end to the throttle cable bracket on your motor. Attach the snap-end to the throttle bellcrank and adjust the clamping position of the cable as needed.
4. [ ] The cable end that slips into the throttle bracket fork must be secured with a strong piece of safety wire or equivalent. This builder has created a clip from a section of bronze hinge pin, bent to fit the fork, then bent again once installed to secure the clip. A small piece of safety wire provides further assurance that the cable will remain secured. The blue plastic tube shown covering the cable is not required. The additional "L" bracket and second cable are for a custom heater valve, which is also not required for your stock motor.
5. [ ] Work the throttle a few times to be sure its operation is smooth and covers the full range of travel.
6. [ ] Note the time.
The cooling system uses a small spherical plastic reservoir known as the "Swirl Pot". The swirl pot is made from a type of plastic called Kynar, and is very durable if positioned and installed correctly. It is important to remove any stress on the plastic hose fittings and check the condition of the swirl pot every inspection. If any signs of stress or fatigue are apparent, replace the swirl pot.
The swirl pot mounting bracket needs to be installed on the firewall with four bolts. You might consider placing nylon washers between the bracket and firewall to prevent trapped moisture/debris and reduce the chances of corrosion. Additional nylon washers can be used behind the lower arm of the bracket as needed, in order to make it sit level on the firewall once it is filled with fluid.
1. [ ] Note the time.
2. [ ] Position the swirl pot mounting bracket so that the midpoint seam of the pot is roughly level with the center of the alternator pulley. On an RV, this equates to the point where the upper firewall is bent outward. For best strength, the bracket should be mounted to the horizontal angle that runs along the width of the firewall inside the cabin. Avoid mounting the bracket to the angled part of the firewall or to the sheet metal alone, as this will not be strong enough and would tilt the swirl pot. The swirl pot can be positioned horizontally as needed to allow clearance for the air filter box. Pay attention to where the upper coolant hose is located to avoid interference with the alternator pulley.
3. [ ] Use at least four bolts to secure the mounting bracket. Shim the bracket with nylon washers as needed to make it sit level when filled with fluid.
4. [ ] Note the time.
August, 2005 Heater Installation Update
The current recommended coolant is Evans NPG, a waterless coolant. It is available from Eggenfellner, installed as an option, or from Evans.
HOT COOLANT SUPPLY HOSE:
The hot supply hose comes off the left side hose tower on top of the engine and runs to the heater core (a control valve in this hose is optional and no longer recommended).
COOLANT RETURN HOSE:
A short section of hose runs from the bottom of your coolant reservoir (Moroso metal tank or Plastic "swirl pot") to your thermostat housing on the bottom left side of the engine. Insert a 5/8" Kynar-plastic or metal tee fitting at any convenient place in this short section of hose, and connect the return side of your heater core to the side barb of this tee fitting.
Install the heater through the firewall with the tubes sticking into the engine compartment and the heater motor touching the cabin floor in the center. Cut the holes slightly large to keep the stainless steel from cutting into the copper. The heater is then installed using the 4 supplied screws and washers through the firewall, on a bead of sealer such as liquid silicone gasket. The screws thread into the heater face plate and need blue LockTite thread locker.
Cut the hose running from the top of the engine block down to the thermostat housing at the heater location and install each end onto the heater barbs using the appropriate Oetiker clamps. Support the hoses with Adel clamps anywhere needed to keep a large and even radius for each turn.
Wire the heater control switch with negative (black) and positive (Red) and then try the other wires on the remaining terminals until OFF - LOW - MEDIUM and HIGH work correctly. Use spade terminals for the wire ends.
HEATER CONTROL VALVE:
The engine will cool better with this not installed. It provides better air purging of the system. No noticeable heat comes from the heater with the fan off and the system is simpler and more reliable without the valve.
== end of Aug, 2005 update ==
If you are installing the factory heater option, it will come with the necessary hoses. If you are using a different heater, you will need to obtain a section of 5/8" blue silicone heater hose from Federal Hose Inc. (URL www.federalhose.com ) Federal ships hose overnight. Unfortunately, the hose is only available in 25' and 50' lengths. This is far more than required, but it is good stuff to have around. All hose connections should be made with Oetiker clamps. The factory recommends that only the Oetiker type clamps be used. There's no reason to use anything else because they are not as secure and are very bulky in comparison.
General Heater Operation: Hot coolant will emerge from the upper engine block hose-tower under the right side of the intake manifold. From there it will flow to the heater control valve. If the valve is open, the hot coolant will flow through the heater core and emerge into a tee fitting. One side of the tee will connect to the bottom of the swirl pot. The other side of the tee will return coolant to the bottom engine block hose-tower (where the thermostat and drain plug or valve are located).
1. [ ] Note the time. Start by draining the glycol coolant from your engine.
Note: The GREEN glycol coolant is only used to flush and test the system. The correct coolant to use is the ORANGE antifreeze which is designed for ALUMINUM engine blocks. Use this type when refilling your system.
2. [ ] Determine where your heater hoses will enter the cabin. If you are using the factory heater option, the heater core barbs will protrude through the firewall into the engine compartment. If you are using another type of heater, drill the necessary holes for AN firewall bulkhead fittings (typically AN size 8) and install those fittings.
Note: The heater inlet can be either tube, it does not matter.
Customization: The author has found that the stock stainless-steel firewall recess box is a good place to locate heater hose fittings, in this case, for a custom-built heater. If you are installing the factory heater, then these fittings are not required. Notice the way the hoses are supported and secured with Adel and Oetiker clamps, and the gentle bends that provide strain relief for the swirl pot.
3. [ ] Install your heater control valve on the firewall. Locate the valve near where your heater core barbs poke through the firewall leaving enough space to allow for gentle bends in the hoses. Pay attention to where the Heater Control Cable will be routed. Note how the heater cable is formed into a loop to connect to the control valve bellcrank.
Customization: This photo shows how the author has customized a common ball-valve to thread directly into the engine block hose-tower. Note the cable-operated lever. This design allows the coolant to be turned off at the block in case of a heater core or hose leak. This setup is for a custom-built heater and is not necessary with the factory heater option.
4. [ ] Connect a section of heater hose between the upper engine block hose-tower and the heater control valve. Secure with Oetiker clamps.
5. [ ] Connect a short section of heater hose between the control valve and the inlet to the heater core. Secure with Oetiker clamps.
6. [ ] Connect a short section of heater hose between the outlet from the heater core to a tee fitting as shown. Secure with Oetiker clamps.
7. [ ] Connect a section of heater hose from one side of the tee fitting to the lower fitting of the swirl pot. Note that this fitting will be facing outboard. The heater hose should have a gentle 180-degree curve to meet this fitting. Secure the tee end with an Oetiker clamp and the swirl pot end with a Breeze clamp or equivalent.
8. [ ] Connect a section of heater hose from the remaining side of the tee fitting to the bottom engine block hose-tower (near the coolant drain plug / valve). Secure with Oetiker clamps.
9. [ ] Secure the hoses with Adel clamps to remove strain on all fittings, particularly the swirl pot fitting. The use of small firewall brackets may be helpful as shown in the previous photo.
10. [ ] Route your Heater Control Cable from the cockpit to the heater control valve. Fasten the push/pull housing to the valve bracket with the supplied clip and screw using some blue Locktite on the screw. Coil the end of the wire and slip it over the control arm stud (ref Step 3 photo). If needed, the stud can be drilled outboard of the coil and a small washer and cotter key can be installed to prevent the coil from disengaging the stud. Test the valve for smooth operation and adjust as needed.
11. [ ] Optionally, you may replace the coolant system drain plug with a radiator drain valve available at any auto parts store. If you use a valve, drill a small safety-wire hole in one end of the handle and secure the valve closed with safety-wire.
12. [ ] Review the entire flow path of the heater to assure it is correctly installed, hoses are free from danger, and so you understand the operation of the system.
13. [ ] You may choose to refill your cooling and heating system with ORANGE, aluminum-block antifreeze at this time, or we will get back to it before running the motor.
14. [ ] Note the time. Take a breather...
The engine crankcase has a long breather tube attached to it to port any crankcase fumes overboard. The tube should be secured at the cowl exit facing rearward to create a slight vacuum as the plane is flying. The engine should have a small plastic breather filter element at the point where this hose meets with the crankcase. Some early motors did not have this breather filter which traps oil vapors that might otherwise form a drip over time.
1. [ ] If your motor does not have this feature, obtain one (Purolator p/n B23165 or FRAM p/n BA6592 approx. $4.95) from your local auto parts store and install it as described.
2. [ ] Note the time.
3. [ ] The existing short section of 5/8" tube that connects to the engine block may need to be longer. Cut a leftover section of the 5/8" silicone heater hose for this purpose. Install the breather cap with removable clamps.
4. [ ] Use a section of 1/2" silicone heater hose or equivalent high-temperature hose to replace the clear breather hose that came with your early engine.
5. [ ] A #12 Adel clamp will fasten the hose to a 8mm bolt-hole near the cylinder camshaft plug. Secure the remaining length of breather hose away from the exhaust system and again to the engine mount tubes near the cowl exit so it won't flap in the wind. Alternatively, a short section of 5/8" aluminum tube makes for a clean end. Some builders cut the end at a heavy taper and then mount it so that it is 1/16" away from the hot exhaust. Any oil will hit the exhaust and evaporate without getting on the airplane.
The photo below shows the clamp, viewed looking up from under the left radiator.
6. [ ] Note the time. You're about halfway towards throwing the starter switch and grinning from ear to ear!
Optional Oil Filler Cap Modification
courtesy of "Mr. G":
 | Mr. G's Oil Cap Mod
sowhasitake?
Careful, it's plastic! |
 | Options
Fun Mandatory |
